The base for the base corrugated metal was prepared using the method described in the "Corrugated Metal" description, but no weathering is applied. The individual pieces in the example above were painted and "chipped" prior to  being applied to the structure. I have found that this makes them easier to handle and control the "peeling" technique. 

The chipping/peeling was done by using rubber cement. The R.C. is first dabbed from the container onto a glass plate, then lightly dabbing the finger into the RC. on the glass, and subsequently dabbing most of it off my finger onto the glass plate, before applying it to the metal. This is done so as to create a finer/more scale resulting pattern. I repeat this over and over, till I feel I have achieved the amount of peeling, I will be after. The rubber cement is used to create the larger peeling areas, that extend into the depressions, as in the example. The additional peeling at the high pints of the corrugation will come later.

Once all the sheets have had the RC applied, carefully brush paint them with Floquil paint; in this case, "Reefer White". The next step is "time" dependent, and requires that the paint not be fully dry, just "set", so I tend to only do several sheets at a time.

After about 5 minutes or less drying time, just enough so that the paint "sets", I take a painted piece, and while laying it on a flat surface (a cutting mat works well for this, as it has some "give"), I gently, yet firmly apply a strip of black crepe photo masking tape to it, covering it from top to bottom, then carefully pull it of. This should remove some of the paint along the ridges, as well as some of the RC. I use 1/4" or 1/2" wide tape, that way I can leave some of the metal exposed where I can hold it down as I am removing the tape. I then repeat this with the other half. (If you're careful, you can also use your finger nail to push the tape into the depressions, to remove some paint there as well; but remember, you don't want the other pieces to dry too much while your working on this one). After the tape removal, lay the piece aside, and repeat with the others. 

After the tape you will still have some RC left on the pieces, this is removed with a slim wedge of "Rubber Cement Pick-up", prior to starting to paint the next batch of sheets.

The above steps are repeated till you have enough sheets for the project. I generally make about 10% extra, in case I don't like the resulting effect or pattern on some of the sheets, or if I make an assembly mistake, I have something to replace them with ( if I don't need them, I save them for a  future project).

Next I lay the pieces out on my workbench and move them around, till I get a feel for how I want them to go together ( to determine how overall "pattern"/texture will look on the building walls).

Once the layout has been decided I carefully cut the pieces, to the sizes and shapes I will need, with a razor blade. I also go through and with a sharp dental pick (or pin), make any old nail holes, etc.

From here on it is somewhat a matter of personal choice, as well as what the project dictates. Sometimes I  rust the pieces before attaching them to the sub walls, other times I rust them in place.

For "rusting" I prefer top use real very finely ground rust. I dip a small brush into the powdered rust, hold the brush just over the area I want the rust effect, and tap it so that the rust palls onto the corrugated surface.....repeat as desired. Once the piece has the desired rust "sprinkles", I dip a wide, soft, flat brush into alcohol, and draw it downward (direction real rust streaks would run) over the metal piece. Then set it aside, taking care to keep it in order of how it will go on the building (if your doing them separately). Once all the pieces are done, I can go back and adjust any that I feel need it.

All pieces shown are approximately 1/2" x 1" (1,25cm x 2,5cm).

The rust was created using "spot" and "pin" washes done with artists oils, and Bragdon's powders. The really dark at the very bottom is thinned Vallejo "SS Camo Black Brown"

I am using "Pantene" (regular hold, unscented) from a pump type bottle, so I can screw off the top and dispense what I need. (on the corrugated I found that there was no need to airbrush it....brushing the hairspray on worked just fine...though the paint does need to be airbrushed over it, otherwise it creates a mess.) 

Here are the three different test examples/results; with the paint type and respective removal method listed under the detail images.

The slightly "rustier" appearance of the bare metal in this version was probably from the fact that parts/areas of these pieces had received a slight, very light, semi- transparent and thinned overspray of a Floquil Roof Brown & Rust mix a few days prior to the application of the "Flat Clear". Not enough to paint the metal.....just enough to slightly tint/accentuate the ridges, and add some shading.

Weathering and finishing was done with artists oils, Bragdon's Powders, and MIG pigments.

All three pieces were done in the same manner.

HERE

These pages are from an original c.1920-25 catalog.

Marc Reusser

November 2004