The Terrapin Narrow Gauge Society
China Diorama
Building a base for the AKI Models 1/76 Scale Ha-Go Type 95 Light Tank
by Marc Reusser
Introduction

At the same time I was building the Ha-Go tank model for the contest on the Modellboard.de forum, The Railroad Line Forums, started a "peanut butter lid challenge"; the idea being to build a scene or diorama that fits into/onto a peanut butter lid (approx 3-1/2" [9cm] in diameter). I figured this would be a great opportunity to combine the two forum projects, and do some experimenting along the way. 

The scene was to be set in 1937 during the Japanese occupation of China. I did not intend for this to be a historically accurate scene, or depict/recreate a certain photo or location, but rather be a just loosely based compilation combining, drawing elements, from photos of the period.

 

 

The Wall

I decided against the original idea of building a building or warehouse corner as the background, and opted for a simple 8' wall with metal gates. This would be less time consuming, and make for a simpler scene that would not detract as much from the tank. The wall was to look like old faded plaster that been painted many years ago, and had seen no maintenance since. 

The wall was built using sheet and strip styrene. The main wall body is 3 sheets of .040 Evergreen Hill sheet stock laminated together, then sanded even & square. The  water-table detail was then laminated on using .015 sheet (approx 1" scale thickness). The top cap was made of .040 x strip styrene, and overhung un the front side to match the water-table.

A #11 Xacto blade was then used to cut and gouge the nicks, chips and scratches into the wall and at the edges. Care needed to be taken to make these look "scale" rather than just like knife gouges. 

The Texture on the wall was then created using a brush dipped in Plastruct Liquid Cement (solvent), then  quickly touched to some Bragdon's Brown weathering powder. The brush is then touched to the styrene surface allowing the solvent to flow out and puddle in a small area, causing the styrene surface to soften. The brush is then repeatedly vertically stippled/dabbed into the softened surface, creating a random raised texture. The brown Bragdon's powder will mix with the plastic and solvent, causing  a very uneven, and unattractive, blotchy appearance; this is what one wants as it will be the "tonal variation" in the final finish. This process needs to be repeated, till the whole wall surface has been stippled.

Once the entire wall was done and had dried thoroughly, it was given a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 Primer from a can. Care was taken to leave the coverage thin enough so that some of the blotchy discoloration could still be seen through the primer. This was then followed by numerous layers and mixtures of MIG and Bragdon's powders, and ground Rembrandt pastels. Windsor Newton Black artists oil was used to create wry thin washes that were carefully run along the top of the water-table, and on the underside of the cap. Small spot washes were also done in some of the nicks and scratches.  

Using a .013 bit, holes were drilled a 6" scale intervals along the center of the wall cap, into which were inserted lengths of .010 brass wire. These were then cut to an even length using a single edge razor blade, and piece of strip styrene as a guide. Lastly they were painted with Floquil 'Roof Brown', using a 0/15 brush.

 

 

The accumulated dirt along the front of the wall and around the pole is a mixture of finely ground limestone (ground with mortar & pestle), Bragdon's powders and MIG pigments, fixed in place with diluted Liquitex 'Matte Medium" (unfortunately the medium puddled along the front of the wall, wicked up some of the color from the ground, and caused the wavy dark stain that could not be removed without damaging the wall.). While still damp a few pieces of ground dried Parsley were scattered onto the surface. Once the dirt had dried, Some Powdered green Rembrandt pastel, MIG "Alllied Green Fading Pigment", and a wash of diluted Black artists oil was run along the bottom of the wall.

 

 

The Water

The water was one of the items I wanted to experiment with, and didn't want to use any of the typical water making materials on the market. The final appearance was to be a murky green/brown color. A mixture of  10% Tamiya acrylics to 90% Liquitex 'Gloss Medium' was applied with a brush in two layers. the first layer was fairly thin and fluid, and dried looking about right. The second layer was applied un-thinned, and lightly stippled, to try and create a slight "ripple" effect. Unfortunately the added acrylic color caused the "ripples" to dry too opaque.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Materials List:

 

Tamiya:

 Putty ( Basic Type)

XF-1 Flat Black

XF-2 Flat White

XF-21 Flat Base

XF-58 Olive Green

XF-59 Desert Yellow

XF-65 NATO Back

X-22 Clear

X-20A Thinner

 

Mr. Hobby:

"Mr. Surfacer 2000"  Spray Can

"Mr. Surfacer 500"  Jar

 

Vallejo/Model Color

#822 German Camo Black Brown

#862 Black Grey

 

Humbrol:

Enamel Thinner

 

Grumbacher:

Turpentine

Pre-Tested Odorless Thinner

 

Windsor-Newton:

#2 Burnt Sienna

#24 Ivory Black

#33 Prussian Blue

 

MIG Productions:

#P035 Panzer Grey (Fading)

#P036 Allied Green (Fading)

#P028 Europe Dust

 

Bragdon's Enterprises:

"Rust" Weathering Powders Set

 

 Water

90% Denatured Alcohol

 

 

Marc Reusser

Dec. 2006

 

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Copyright 2006, Marc Reusser all rights reserved.