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There is a category in I.P.M.S. (international
Plastic Modelers Society) competition, that is called "Out Of
The Box" (OOB).
this category requires that you are only allowed to use what came
in the box as part of the kit to build the model. No aftermarket
details, no styrene, no wire nothing...unless ist comes with the
kit from the Mfr.
I decided I wanted to see how far I could take this (to a
reasonable extent/limit due to time constraints in getting the
model done).
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This side view shows the dented and bent fender detail The fender
was milled from the underside to a thickness of .020" to
better mimic the appearance of the prototypes flimsiness, and
allow them to be more easily bent and shaped. The holes for the
tool holders were filled with styrene rod, and all the cast on
tool detail on the topside was carefully removed with a chisel.
The engine cover hatch has had the intermediate rivets removed
to properly represent those found on the Ausf. E.
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Alterations at the rear include the absence of the left idler
wheel tensioner cover, the broken column light bracket, 3 missing
rivets, and the end of the bent fender.
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This view shows the few spots of putty that were required.
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This image shows the left side of the tank at the engine
compartment area. To the left are cast in locator pin holes for
tools, that needed to be filled. The white styrene strip at the
engine compartment opening was necessary because the kit part
allows for a visible gap when the lid is fitted, which needed to
be closed up.
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This image shows the styrene correction necessary at all the
engine cover panel sides.
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Here we see how all the fender
supports were drilled out for running electrical conduit.
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This rear view of the turret shows the two added strips of styrene
that were added after sanding and fitting the top plate.
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This view of the turret shows some of the small putty patches. the
PE visor at the front has been chemically blackened.
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The kit toolbox (shown fitted) came without the rear half of the
top; a piece was fabricated from the sprue label tab. The front
lid of the toolbox was sanded to .020" thickness, so that it
could be more realistically bent to show damage.
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Panting & Finishing
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This is where the
project went all to hell.....I think that it's pretty much the end
of the project...at least as far as being IPMS material.
I was not happy with the underlying rust color once it was chipped
through the Dunkelgrau, so I decided to try and add a wash of dark
brown in the rust/chipped areas, to tone down the "orangey"
hue.....I used a wash of Floquil "Roof Brown"...which is
a lacquer based paint.....and was hoping that the primer, acrylic
rust tone and the acrylic Dunkelgrau would protect the
plastic......but alas it did not, and the lacquer thinner base
seriously attacked the plastic in numerous
areas...."softening" some of the detail edges, causing
inside corners at to "fuse" together, losing parting
lines, and causing the plastic to have some unsightly
blisters/imperfections at areas....unfortunately many of these
areas happened to be at the most visible locations...fenders,
front glacis, bolt details, panel parting lines, turret edge, etc.
Were I doing a lot of caked on mud, I could
probably salvage it almost completely.....but seeing that this
tank is in an urban setting and would have limited caked on/dried
mud, I will have to utilize a bit it selectively, to hide the
worst areas.
Below are some photos of where it stands, after the wash fiasco.
The solvent wash staining can easily be seen where it migrated out
of control (especially noticeable on the turret).
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In this view in the red boxes, you can see some of
the issues that have occurred in numerous places around the tank.
Notice the corner between the fender support and the top of the
fender, and how it has "melted" into a fillet. (this is
likely a location for some "mud"). Also note in the
small box where the Glacis meets the hull plate. The solvent
attacked the lower edge of the Glacis, and made slightly
"Irregular"
Despite this, I was actually pleased with the
mottling and coloration of the rust areas, as well as with the
flaked off paint.
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In this overall view of the front you can see the
previously mentioned issues, as well as another one that occurred
in several places. Note the panel seam/joint between the hull and
the transmission access panel....how the edges of the panel have
become somewhat "irregular" in areas. and the joint has
somewhat "filled in" for the most part, due to the
solvent attacking the plastic. Another problem the solvent caused,
was to glue/weld the MG pivot into a fixed position
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This view of the rear shows how some of the details
and edges have become slightly "softened" by the
solvent.
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Figuring that this vehicle was field painted "Dunkelgelb"
by it's crew, I am taking the approach that areas such as behind
the wheels, under the fenders, interiors of sprockets, behind
stowage boxes, hull underside, etc, will not have much if any
yellow paint, as they would not have been concerned much about
these areas.
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A couple of days ago I painted the model with the final color. This was done using a mix of Vallejo, 'Desert Yellow' (#977), 'Sand Yellow' (#916), and 'Beige' (#917). A panel fading coat was done by adding 'Sand Light' (#837) to the mix.
Tonight after 3 Martinis, I sat at my bench sipping a nice glass of Mezcal when I decided to see if the airbrushed Vallejos would chip like the brushed ones in the previous experiment. Using water as I had done in the previous had no effect on the paint.....what now....isopropyl alcohol was too strong and would ruin all the layers of the paint....then it hit me!. I poured a small amount of the Mezcal in an artists tray, and tried removing the paint with that....BINGO!....it began softening and chipping only the Vallejo layers..
I went to the kitchen, and got some cheaper Tequila. I filled one
artists tray with Tequila, and another with water.
After some practice, I found that by dipping my brush into the tequila, brushing it on an area, and starting to chip, I could then somewhat control and vary the softening of the paint, the amount of chipping, and the texture, by at then dipping the brush into the water and diluting the Tequila. This was done at different points and times of the chipping. The control was not perfect, and apparently still depends on the adhesion factor of the Vallejo....but I was happy to find it could be done to an airbrushed application.
Though I went overboard with what is shown in the images,..... it did give me an
opportunity to play around. With some practice, I think there might be some applicable situations for the technique.
The small chips and linear chips/scratches, were
done by applying a bit of the Tequila, then when slightly
softened, lightly chipping or drawing the point of an Xacto blade
across it.
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Introduction
As with all model kits, all the parts were carefully
washed with warm soapy water and a soft brush prior to assembly
and painting. (I washed them on the sprue before assembly,
and then one more time after they had been sanded, fitted glued,
etc., prior to priming).
All parts were painted using a Paasche 'VL' double-action,
internal mix airbrush, with a #1 tip. Brush painting was only employed for
filters, weathering and some minor areas of touch-up. The
exception was the Primer coat of Mr. Hobby "Mr. Surfacer
2000, which was applied from a spray can.
I
broke the painting & weathering process down into the
following steps:
Interior
Painting & Weathering
Primer
Coat
Color
Coat
Panel
Shading
Washes
& Filters
Insignias
& Markings
Fading,
Chipping & Rust
Clear
Coat
Dust
& Dirt
Oil
Stains
Tracks
Final
Pick-up & Touch-up
Finishing and painting any model is really a matter of
choice, information from reference materials, your artistic
impression, and modeling "style/look". Herein I am
merely explaining my own "personal" approach, and may
not be to your taste, or 100% prototypically accurate.
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Interior
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Sub-Assemblies
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Dust, Dust,
Dirt & Oil Staining
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Pre-Shading
After the entire model received a primer coat of "Mr.
Surfacer 1200"
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Color Coat
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Panel Shading
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Road Wheels
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Filters & Washes
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| Insignia &
Markings
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| Fading, Chipping
& Rust
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| Muffler &
Exhaust
This was done to simulate rust as it would occur on an
exposed exhaust pipe. A surface which is regularly heated and
cooled, and exposed to the weather, thus obtaining both a dark
base color, with a worn surface, and multiple layers of
more freshly oxidized flakes, and texture.
The exhaust pipe was drilled out to obtain a thinner wall
thickness. The dents were first drawn out with a pencil to make
sure the locations looked correct (used tip from Adam), and then
made using a small Dremel round headed bit. Final shaping and
blending were done with 400 grit wet sandpaper.
The surface texture was created using Bragdon's Rust Powders
mixed with Plastruct liquid styrene cement. Using an old brush,
the surface was given a coat of solvent to soften it. While
tacky, the entire surface was then coated with a mixture of
"Soot" and "Medium Rust" for the darker base
coat. When pretty much dry, using another old brush with the
bristles cut short, the brush was dipped into the solvent and
immediately dipped into lighter rust colored pigments, and then
stippled onto the surface.....softening the surface, making it
"tacky" and creating a raised texture of varied
colors. This was done repeatedly in multiple layers to obtain
the coloring, layering and depth desired. Once satisfied it was
set aside to thoroughly dry. When dry, some additional
"Soot" color was added to the end of the exhaust.
The silvery-grey areas are intended to represent where an
adjacent object has recently rubbed against/come in contact with
the an adjacent surface/object.
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Tracks
Tracks always seem like a daunting task on a tracked vehicle.
Many modelers tend to represent their tracks with rusty
finish/appearance with only a few dry-brushed, or graphite bare
metal highlight areas at the exterior of the track; and many
completely ignore or forget to do the worn metal areas/surfaces
at the interior side of the track where the drive
sprockets, idlers, and road wheels come in contact.
I take great issue with this approach. Though it may be seen
as stylized, or interpretive, it is generally incorrect and
prototypically inaccurate. Most modelers appear to copy from
display and museum vehicles whose tracks have sat idle for a
long time, and oxidized/rusted over time. This image shows the tracks of a 38t as on static display in
a museum. Note the oxidation/rust.
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These images show the tracks of the same 38t after a short cross
country excursion. Note the lack of "red/orange" rust
color. The rust has worn off very quickly, to a mix of bare
metal, old brown "deep oxidation" and dust/dirt;
giving the outside of the tracks a soft warm grey/brown shade.
Note also the lack of any rust on the interior track
surface. Note how areas are polished/worn where they come in
contact with moving parts.
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Looking at these examples I decided to take a somewhat different
approach to the tracks, than frequently shown/described
elsewhere.
I decided rather than painting the tracks, and
then highlighting the worn and exposed steel parts by
dry-brushing with metallic paint, or using graphite. The idea
was to paint the tracks a steel base color, and then
"wear" the over painted colors off, to expose the
steel color underneath; like prototype tracks, and like is done
with Friul metal tracks.
The first step was to airbrush all the
individual track links (prior to assembly) with Alclad II Lacquer
"Steel" (#ALC-112), then overspray with a light dusting of Alclad
II "Chrome" (#ALC-107) to lightly accentuate the high points and
edges.
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These are two quick test pieces that were done to
see/experiment with what the process would be. The photos render
the red/brown hue a bit stronger and more opaque than in reality,
where more subtle suggestions of the underlying steel gray color
can be seen. With a bit more dusting on the right example, I think I can match the prototype tracks in the images above.
After acrylic washes, the piece on the left was
dusted with "Rottenstone" and washed into the crannies
with Grumbacher "Odorless Thinner" (note to self:
odorless thinner attacks/softens the Alclad II paints), this was
followed with a dusting of MIG "Europe Dust" (#P208),
which ended up being a bit more yellow than I had hoped for, and
hinted at more of a "rust" finish, rather than dust.
The section on the right was dusted with a
mixture of MIG "Europe Dust" (#P208), & "Panzer
Grey Fading" (#P305), and yielded a better dust color for my
eventual needs.
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On the exterior of the track, the low spots
and recesses were colored using very thinned washes of acrylic
paints. The first wash was Tamiya "Nato Black" (XF-69).
When thoroughly dry, this was followed by several more washes,
consisting of random mixtures/shades of Tamiya "Nato
Black" (XF-69), "Flat Brown" (XF-10), and Vallejo
"Leather Brown" (#872). Each wash layer was allowed to
dry prior to applying the next layer. Once The washes had the look
and coverage desired, a soft rag dampened with water diluted 70%
isopropyl alcohol, was used to clean any wash residue that might
have settled on the high spots/contact surfaces.
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| Steel Cables
Every tank needs some steel cables....so I decided to
experiment with some stretched sprue, and see if I could make
"plausible" steel cables.
This cable has "field" made ends (so not really a true
"tow cable").....The entire cable is a bit less than 3
inches (7.5 cm) long. It has been brush painted with Floquil
"Roof Brown", dusted with some powders, and been
rubbed with pencil graphite. Far from perfect, but it makes me
think there might be a possibility to do this for my project.
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I wasn't quite happy with the
cable....so I thought I would have a try at it again.
I built a tool to better help me hold and turn the stretched
sprue pieces:
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After about the fifth try I ended
up with a 19cm long cable that was acceptable.
I devised a story for this cable: It was to be a cable that had
once broken in the field at one end during use.
Here the original end. The hasps were made out of paper from the
kit instructions, and the rivets/screw heads, are pieces of
stretched sprue.
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| Here the "field repaired" end. |
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| Here both ends after some quick
preliminary paint and finish.
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| Stowage Boxes
As was typical on these tanks, I needed some gear stowage boxes
for on the fenders:
My first attempt was using the instruction sheet paper to fold
one up....it was pretty much a disaster.
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| So it was time to implement Plan
"B'.....this involved using the sprue tabs, which were
removed, cut in half, and glued together:
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| These were then filled where
needed, and sanded smooth and thinner.
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| ...then cut to size, and assembled
into the basic boxes. lower portion of the box at left is made
from the unused smoke discharger rack.
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| Lastly the details were added.
Hinges and rivet heads were made from stretched sprue. The hasps
are a combination of stretched sprue, and parts formed from the
PE sheet frame. The large box is 15mm wide, and 9mm tall.
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| Recovery Beam German
tanks used in the Russian and French campaigns often carried
recovery beams, or bundled small logs to aid them in extricating
themselves from unfavorable soil conditions. These were
generally added by the crews in the field, and mounting methods
varied widely. Though this would likely not be seen on a tank in
late war Bulgarian Service, I thought it would make a fun detail
to model. I may not include the beam in the end model, but I
will leave the rack, as this detail would likely still be in
place on a used tank.
The image below shows a 38t with the beam and mounting method I
am using as an example.
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| In order to get the
proper finished dimension for the beam, numerous pieces of sprue
were glued together in the general shape.
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| This was then planed
to the correct size, and length. |
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gaps, and ends of shaped block; a putty was made by dissolving,
chunks of the sprue, and shavings from sanding, in Plastruct
liquid cement.
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| The beam was grained and carved.
Painted with. |
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| Here the beam can be seen in its
rack on the fender. |
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| Beam Rack The
rack in the photo appears to have been made out of steel angle
iron, and tubing. To make the angle iron, a sprue tab was sanded
to the proper thickness, and cut into strips.
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| These strips were
then glued together at right angles, to form the required shape. |
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| Here the beam racks
are shown installed on the fenders. The "tubing was made
from extruded sprue; as were the rivet heads, which were then
sliced from the proper diameter piece.
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| Here the racks with
the beam before it was carved and painted. Some Tamiya putty was
required to fill in small surface imperfections, which the
"homemade" putty did not fill completely.
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| Bucket
Every tank needs a bucket hanging from it......and after two
tries and two hours of work, I finally got one that I think is
passable/useable. To make the side, two concentric circle/arc
lines were cut from primer coated paper from the
instruction sheet.
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This was then slightly lapped at the ends
(about 1/64-1/32") and glued with super glue. It was quite
fussy to get it to sit right, and not kink the paper while
working with it...hence the two tries. The Bottom is cardboard
from the box lid, the details and handles are from stretched
sprue. The top edge seam was sealed/filled with "Mr.
Surfacer 500", thus the somewhat wobbly/uneven appearing
edge.
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old used galvanized bucket that had developed surface oxidation,
and had seen heavy use in a variety of tasks. Coloring was done
with an initial Brush applied coat of a pale blue Humbrol matt
enamel (#23), when dry this was lightly sprayed with a coat of
Tamiya spray paint (TS-27 'Matte White'), this was folloewd by
several light washes of Windsor Newton Artists Oils ('Ivory
Black' , "Burt Umber"). These were followed with
washes of Vallejo acrylics (#869 'Basalt Grey', # 862 'Black
Grey)...while not fully dry Bragdon's rust powders were applied,
and blended into the acrylic washes with a water dampened brush.
Lastly the bucket was given a pin wash of 'Ivory Black' in
the seams and details, with a very light dusting of Doc O'Briens
Grungy Gray" weathering powder.
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| Boots The
boots were made from the feet/boots of the included figure. The
kit part was drilled out, and the loose fitting uppers were made
from softened (in Plastruct solvent) leftover thinned sprue tab.
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| Cobblestones & Base
For the cobblestones, I initially drew a grid in
Auto-Cad, and
printed it on the inside of the box lid, with an inkjet printer.
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| All the pieces were then cut out. I
also cut a slight bevel at all the corners of the pieces. All
cuts were made from the grey side of the cardboard, so that the
pressure indentation would be the right direction.
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Here are all the pieces and the
shaved sprue "trolly track" glued in place.
once the "stone" pieces were glued to the board and
dry (before track was added) I took the board outside and laid
it face down on my asphalt driveway and some concrete, and
stepped on the board, till I got the texture impressions I was
after. This was then covered with a brushed on coat of Liquitex
"Matte Medium". Just before the matte-medium completely
dried, I took the rounded end of a small brush and drew/indented
it along the stone lines/cracks, to great a slight depression
and eased edges to the stones. Lastly the track detail was
attached with superglue.
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| Here is about how the tank will sit
on the base.
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| A view of the base after being sprayed
with "Mr. Surfacer. 1000"
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| The result of the coloring of the
cobblestone street......How exactly I achieved it is a bit tough
to explain (can't fully remember the whole process myself).
Random base washes were done with Tamiya acrylics (#XF-22 "RLM
Grey", #XF-52 'Flat Earth'). This was followed by
dry-brushing and highlights of varied mixes of Vallejo acrylics
(#886 'Green-Grey', #905 'US Blue-Grey Pale', #874 'US Tan
Earth"), followed by thinned washes of artists oils. At this point there was quite a bit of variation and
highlights in the stones....however when the MIG pigments (P039
'Industrial City Dust', #P028 'Europe Dust') were
applied for the cracks, it took away a lot of that. Thus some
more random dry-brushing high-lighting with acrylics was done. The rail
was painted with Floquil "Roof Brown", into which
pigment was rubbed. Staining and coloring was done with more
artists oil washes in Turpentine. (what appears to be white
spots/areas on the rail, is the photo lights reflecting in some
of the sheen of the finish).
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| A detail photo.
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| Corrugated Metal
I needed some pieces of corrugated metal for clutter on the
base......and went about adapting the technique posted in this
thread, http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=15.0
.
For the "metal" I am utilizing cut pieces of the
instruction sheet, that have been thoroughly brushed/soaked on
both sides with diluted Liquitex "Matte Medium". My
thought being that the matte medium will act as both a
stiffener, and reduce the surface fuzz of the paper.
Two form halves were made using .050 styrene sheet. Onto which
were glued .080" rods spaced at .060". This gives me
pretty much a a prototypical 2-1/2" center to center
corrugation. The spaced between the rods were filled using .060
x .040 styrene strips. This would strengthen and stabilize the
round rods, and give me a positive "depth limit" stop
on the corrugation.
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The original intent was to merely
sandwich the soaked piece of paper between the two forms....but
this proved to be problematic due to the way the paper develops
tension as it has to lay into the lower form grooves as the
upper form is pressed into place. So I laid one edge of the
soaked paper square on to, and lightly laid it across the form.
I then began at one side and pressed individual .080"
styrene rods into the grooves. Once these were all in place I
weighted them down. [At this point I could have removed the
rods, and just pressed the other form half in their place....but
I decided this way the air would circulate better for the paper
to dry, and I could do another piece in the other half of the
form.]
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| This photo shows the paper dry in
the form with the rods removed. |
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| This image shows the dried
corrugated paper removed from the form, and ready for paint with
airbrush, and weathering. This same template and method is
easily used on thin alum., brass, and copper for real metal
roofing.
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| The finished corrugated roofing. I
took a somewhat interpretative approach to the finish, and did
it more overall rusty finish than actual roofing might be, but I
needed it to act as an 'accent' color/finish on the base.
The paper was brush painted with Floqiuil "Roof
Brown". After the surface appeared dry, I used a pin to
poke nail/fastening holes and randomly brushed the pieces with
various Bragdon's rust and black colored powders. The high
points/ridges were then lightly rubbed with a soft cotton rag.
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| A detail view. |
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| Rubble
Here are the two components that will become the rubble. On
the left are all the small leftover cardboard corner pieces,
that I cut off the street pavers. On the right are sprue pieces
that have been finely chopped with a razor blade.
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| These were then mixed together in a
small plastic tray. To this was added some 95% Isopropyl
Alcohol, a couple of drops of Vallejo acrylics (#821 German WW2
Camouflage Beige), MIG Powder (#PO38 African Earth), and a mix
of powdered grey Rembrandt pastels.
This mixture was then stirred together until everything had good
color coverage.
At this point the mixture was a coagulated lumpy mass. In the
tray, it was then placed under a desk lamp to dry, during which
I used a small artists spatula to constantly move it
around and break it apart, resulting in the finished material.
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| Bricks
The bricks were made using the torso of the figure.
The torso was first planed to a block that had the proper
brick cross section/dimension. In this case 4"x 8".
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| This was then sliced into
individual bricks (like bread slices). Using an X-acto knife and
a Mission Models chisel, these were then cut, reworked and
sculpted, to give the appearance of older/damaged/rubble brick.
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| The finished bricks. The bricks
were dry-brushed and "dabbed" with a mixture of Tamiya
Acrylics (XF-9 'Hull Red', XF-68 'Nato Brown') and Vallejo
Acrylics (#821 'German WW2 Camouflage Beige', #829 'Light
Brown'), then lightly dusted with MIG Powder (#PO38 African
Earth). The grout was made with a mixture of powdered Rembrandt
pastel ('Raw Umber'), Vallejo Acrylics (#821 'German WW2
Camouflage Beige'), and MIG Powder (PO35 'Panzer Grey Fading'),
and Windsor Newton Gouache ('Zinc White'), stirred till a thick
paste was created, then stippled onto the brick pieces on the
sides where mortar would occur.
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| Steel Debris Pieces I
wanted to include some pieces of bent/broken steel in the
rubble. Pieces were fabricated from a leftover scrap of the beam
rack, and a pieces of the PE sprue/frame. Holes were drilled and
bolts were made from cut pieces of stretched sprue.
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| Conclusion
Though in the end it is probably too overboard to be allowed
in the OOB entry category, it has been a lot of fun to do.
It has taken me back to some of the fun, adventure and
creativity of modeling that I used to feel as a kid, when you
would open that box and just be in wonder of all those parts and
what would be created with them....and that great fun of seeing
something evolve in front of your own eyes.
It has given me a nice opportunity to think outside the
proverbial "box" as what is possible with these items,
to do some great research, experimenting and creative thinking;
and an interesting study on how I perceive ordinary unrelated
things at first look. It was also fun/interesting to build all
this without spending a dime on materials or aftermarket
parts...(though an existing small fortune in tools, paints,
etc., didn't hurt ) Above all though, it really helped to hone
some of my existing modeling skills/techniques, and learn a
number of new ones; as well as make me less regimented and
afraid of trying certain things in my modeling.
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Reference Material
PzKpfw 38(t) In Action;
Squadron/Signal Books #2019
PRAGA; LT vz.38 Pz.Kpfw. 38(t),
MBI Publishing
Tank Power vol. XXI; PzKpfw 38(t),
Wydawnictwo Militaria No.241
TANKS & ARMOUR: PanzerKampfwagen 38(t),
Ian Allen Publishing
Pz.Kpfw 38(t)Ausf.A-D in Detail,
Special Museum Line No.38; Wings &
Wheels Publications
Mig Productions
F.A.Q.
AFV Modeler Magazine
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Materials
List:
Tamiya:
Putty
( Basic Type)
XF-1
Flat Black
XF-2
Flat White
XF-21
Flat Base
XF-58
Olive Green
XF-59
Desert Yellow
XF-65
NATO Back
X-22
Clear
X-20A
Thinner
Mr.
Hobby:
"Mr.
Surfacer 2000" Spray Can
"Mr.
Surfacer 500" Jar
Vallejo/Model
Color
#822
German Camo Black Brown
#862
Black Grey
Humbrol:
Enamel
Thinner
Grumbacher:
Turpentine
Pre-Tested
Odorless Thinner
Windsor-Newton:
#2
Burnt Sienna
#24
Ivory Black
#33
Prussian Blue
MIG
Productions:
#P035
Panzer Grey (Fading)
#P036
Allied Green (Fading)
#P028
Europe Dust
Bragdon's
Enterprises:
"Rust"
Weathering Powders Set
Water
90%
Denatured Alcohol
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Marc
Reusser
Feb.
2007
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